Okinawa’s dyed and woven textile

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Ms Hatsuko Miyahira 　Fabrics of Shuri

　The Shuri textile is produced using traditional dyeing and weaving techniques developed and inherited over five hundred years in the Ryukyu Dynasty capital of Shuri and its surrounding areas. It made a unique development while incorporating influences of China and Southeastern Asian cultures. The fabrics of high techniques and excellent design were worn mostly by aristocrats and shizoku (warriors) classes and their main weavers were wives and daughters of shizoku. The fabrics were one of the jobs they were proud of. There are seven Shuri textile techniques handed down to the current age: Shuri Hanaori, Roton Ori, Hanakura Ori, Muru-tutchiri, Tejima, Nihgashii Basho-fu and Hanaori Tekin. Silk is the main raw material but Choma and Ito-Basho are also used. Ryukyu indigo and other plant dyes are used and weaving is done by handlooms called “Jihata” and “Takahata” (tall handloom) using a throwing shuttle.
　For dyeing/weaving techniques inherited in one locality, the Shuri fabrics have some unique features in their variety and sophisticated quality.
　It is one of the country’s representative weaving arts that is historically and artistically valuable and shows an excellent local beauty.

　Certification of the holder
　Ms Hatsuko Miyahira
　(Date of birth: November 6, 1922)
　

Ms Miyahara was born in Naha City. She entered the Okinawa Kenritsu Kogei Gakko (Okinawa Prefectural Women’s School of Arts and Crafts) in 1935 where she learned dyeing. She met Muneyoshi YANAGI in the year of her graduation and went to Tokyo where she studied weaving and dyeing with plant stuff at the Japan Folk Crafts Museum and the studio of Yoshitaka YANAGI. After her return to Naha in 1941, she acquired a wide range of techniques of pre-war Shuri textiles while teaching at her former school. The Pacific War turned the entire Shuri area into burnt ground, but she devoted herself to reviving the Shuri fabric traditions. While engaging herself in a research of plant dyestuff at Chuo Nogyo Shiken Shidojo from 1958 and at Ryukyu Kogyojo Kenkyu Shidojo from 1963, she continued to study techniques and expressions of Shuri textiles and acquired highly sophisticated skills.
　Ms Miyahara has mastered the techniques of all seven Shuri fabrics, and adds her modern originality to the traditional methods. Her excellent works have been exhibited at Kokuten (Kokugakai Exhibition), the Japan Folk Crafts Museum Exhibition, Okiten and so on, and were highly acclaimed.
　She founded “Miyahara Orimono Kobo” in 1970 and was appointed by the Okinawa Prefecture as an Intangible Cultural Asset in 1974. As a holder of the title of “Honba Shuri no Orimono” (true Shuri weaving master), she is playing a central role in preserving the traditional asset and developing its successors.

　1939 Graduated Okinawa Kenritsu Joshi Kogei Gakko.
　　　　　　Met Muneyoshi Yanagi and studied weaving and dyeing with plant stuff at the Japan Folk Crafts Museum and the studio of Yoshitaka Yanagi.
　1941 Started teaching at her former school, Okinawa Kenritsu Joshi Kogei Gakko.
　1958 Engaged in the research and development of silk processing skills and plant dyestuff as a teacher at Chuo Nogyo Shiken Shidojo, Ryukyu Government Economic Bureau.
　1963　Engaged in research of plant dyestuff at Ryukyu, Kogyo Kenkyu Shidojo
　1965 (to present) Member of Okiten
　1969 Awarded the 43rd “Kokuten Kokuga-sho” (“Suouji Tejima”)
　1970 Awarded the Japan Folk Crafts Museum’s Showa 45nen Nihon Mingeikan-sho (“Tejima Kijaku” and other works)
　1973 Awarded Grand Prix of the 7th Okinawa Times Geijutsu Sensho
　1974 Certified as a holder of the Okinawa Prefecture Intangible Culture Asset “Honba Shuri no Orimono”
　1975 Received an official commendation from the Minister of Labor
　1976　Member of Kokugakai (up to now)
　1981 Received the Medal with a Yellow Ribbon
　1984 Awarded the 4th Dento Bunka Pola Tokusho (Revival of the Shuri textiles)
　1993 “Gendai no Senshoku - Sozai to Waza no Bi” Exhibition by invitaion of Fukushima Prefectural Museum

Source:"Ori no Sanpomichi - Shuri no Orimono no Fukei" Okinawa Dento Honba Shuri Orimono Hozonkai